LINWOOD -- The little red market has for the past 100-plus years been the unassuming neighborhood corner store, providing candy and treats for children, and deli, milk and bread for their parents. At one time they even had a gas pump.
Times change and so has Linwood Market.
The Cohen family, owners of the market for the past year, have spruced up the place and have boldly suggested they are purveyors of the best Italian sub anywhere.
“Our Italian sub is so good I’m willing to participate in a sub smack down,” said Katherine Cohen, daughter of owner Harry Cohen. “I’d like to do it this spring.”
Smack down is a professional wrestling term that means a no-holds-barred free-for-all. Katherine Cohen fully understands that means taking on the king of all sub shops, the White House in Atlantic City.
The Linwood Market Italian starts with a Rando Bakery roll packed with the finest meats, cheeses and all the fixin’s.
Of course, if you can’t wait for Super Sub Smack Down 2007, you are going to have to do the taste test yourself.
The “little red market” on the corner of Wabash and Poplar avenues underwent a 16-hour marathon remodel last week thanks to Katherine Cohen, her brother Alex, his friends’ other family members, and people from the neighborhood.
“People came by and saw us working and just pitched in to help,” said Katherine Cohen.
Linwood Market has always been like that, as far as I can remember.
I started going there as a child when it was known as Hank’s and had already been in business for 60 some years. Owner Hank Miduski carried lots of items in his store, including penny candy that sat behind a glass case.
I remember many a day telling Hank, (who looked to me like the Skipper on “Gilligan’s Island”) exactly how many red hot dollars and licorice bunnies I wanted wrapped up in my small, brown paper bag. He must have had the patience of Job.
I grew older, my tastes evolved and I was soon driving to Byron’s, as it was then known, for sandwiches, salads and, yeah, candy.
I eventually moved out of the county, but Linwood Market remained, changing hands a couple times.
Under the current ownership, Linwood Market is returning to its roots providing good deli food served by staff that care about the customer.
On a recent visit, the girl behind the counter offered me the daily lunch specials and reminded me of their all-day breakfast menu before I said a word.
For a small store, Linwood Market has a varied menu, from cold sandwiches and wraps, to hot food and salads. They even have hot soup made fresh daily.
Another childhood memory I have of Linwood Market is picking my own pickle out of a giant wooden barrel. The original pickle barrel sat on a milk crate and I could barely peer in to see the pickles and dill seeds swirling around.
After fishing one out with the metal tongs, the savory green goody would go right into a wax bag that leaked pickle brine all the way home.
The pickles are still available at Linwood Market and the wooden barrel remains. Some things never change.

The Skinny

Linwood Market now carries cannolis, plus slices and whole cheesecakes from Cheesecake World in Marmora. Well worth the ton of calories.
The Cohens are awaiting the installation of a lottery machine. All the connections are in place and the green machine should be online soon.
The Cohens make a specialty breakfast sandwich called the Mess, but it’s not on the menu; you have to ask for it. It consists of two fried eggs, a sausage patty, hash browns and Boars Head American cheese, all piled on a fresh kaiser roll. All breakfast sandwiches are made to order, so if you’re in a hurry, call ahead.
The coffee bar is in the back of the store and features Ireland coffee.

If You Go

Linwood Market is open from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m., Monday through Friday; 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday. It also makes party trays and lunch meat trays for every occasion. The Linwood Market is located at the corner of Poplar and Wabash avenues, on the bike path. Learn more online at www.linwoodmarket.com or call (609) 927-6713.