From soda fountain to fine dining at Piro’s
The brother-sister combo of Pat and Marie Piro were popular kids growing up in the Wildwoods. Who wouldn’t be when Pop owns the local soda shop?
“My father, Salvatore, was the former owner of the Little Club, on 17th and New York, which he left in 1955 to establish Piro’s,” said Pat. “I can remember the ’50s and ’60s, the long counter, the soda fountain, ice cream, pizzas, your typical 1950s-style place. It was just a great time, the juke boxes, the pinball machines, the Cokes for a nickel…we had a lot of fun here.”
So much fun that they never left. They grew up in the shop and took over the operation that would become the fine dining restaurant that it is today.
Pat and Marie begin their days at 8:30 a.m. in their 100-seat restaurant and they don’t make it home until well after 10 p.m., which is closing time. In between, they are fanatical about the details of their eatery.
“We demand the best service, the best stemware, the best silverware, the best China…we want people to believe this is a great place and we want them to come back. Details in the restaurant business is 50 percent of the battle; if you don’t pay attention to details, you won’t do well,” Pat said.
The dining room is an example of their attention to detail. The tables are well manicured and the walls are beautifully decorated.
“Oh, we have a wonderful art collection,” Pat said. “These are all original lithographs done in the late 1800s and early 1900s of European cathedrals. It’s a very pleasant setting, very subdued.”
To add to the experience, Pat and Marie have a wine list that will match anyone’s in the county. They’ve worked hard to procure the finest wines to match their mainly Italian- and seafood-driven menu.
“We’ve taken a real interest in wine, ever since we got out liquor license in 1989. We have the finest California and Italian wines that run the gamut, from $15 a bottle to $130 a bottle,” Pat said. “We have a special on Monday nights for people to try wine for $10 a bottle, which is very popular. And Wednesday nights, we visit the land of the black rooster.”
Chianti Classico, adorned with the black rooster, is imported from Italy. It comes from the oldest, officially designated wine growing area in the world. The rooster represents the high quality of the wine from the region and serves as a memory of the beautiful Tuscan landscape.
“It is, it’s a wonderful bottle of wine, and we sell it $14 a bottle,” he said. “I believe having good wine is part of being a good restaurant. Good food and good wine go together. I think it’s important if you’re going to be a top quality restaurant, so we’re serious about providing top quality wines.”
Pat and Marie are self-taught chefs who are always looking for new things to add to their menu, and they get help from Robert Zsitkovsky, who has been with the team for seven years after graduating from the renowned Culinary Institute in Mays Landing.
“My sister and I are the engines that drive this place and Bobby is a great young guy who is our chef. He’s bright and innovative and comes up with some wonderful ideas,” Pat said. “And my son, Mark, who is 38, is the general manager of the entire operation, so it’s a very good staff. We’re very lucky to have Mark and Bobby taking over things here. Marie and I still oversee everything but we’ve been in the business a long time, it’s a grind and we needed the young blood to take over some things. But we’re still here every day supervising everything.”
Salvatore’s influence is still found in the kitchen through traditional recipes for classic Italian dishes.
“The gravies and sauces, the meatballs, the escarole soup are all the old fashioned Italian recipes, the old stove recipes is what I call them. They’re still made the way our parents made them,” he said.
Even the desserts are all made on the premises.
“All except for the ice cream. Again, it’s the details,” Pat said. “There are times of the day when we ask, Why do we do it? It’s something you really can’t answer, it’s something that’s in your blood. We do it because we love it.”
Rob Seitzinger can be e-mailed at
seitz[at]catamaranmedia.com or you can
comment on this story by calling 624-8900, ext. 250.
PIRO’S
1901 New York Ave.
North Wildwood
729-0401
ON THE MENU
Chef’s favorite dishes: Appetizers--Gamberi pane (shrimp toast), sauteed shrimp in herbs and butter and served with plum tomatoes and peas over toasted Tuscan bread; Carpaccio, thinly sliced tenderloin of raw filet mignon, imported parmigiano reggiano, capers, sundried tomatoes, and extra virgin olive oil, served with toasted Tuscan bread with goat cheese and roasted garlic bruschetta; Crab and spinach chowder, winner of multiple contests for best chowder. Entrée—The most popular dish over the years has been a traditional favorite with a twist. Stuffed flounder, but three fillets of flounder individually stuffed with crabmeat and rolled, garnished with spices and then broiled.
Price ranges: Appetizers--$5.50 to $12.95, Entrees $12.50 to $29.95.
Dine in/Take out: Whole menu available for take-out.
Liquor license/BYOB: Fully stocked bar with a dining area around the bar; extensive wine list.
Parking: Small parking lot in the back, this neighborhood not a parking problem.
Hours: 5 to 10 p.m., seven days a week.
Reservations recommended
Rob Seitzinger can be e-mailed
at seitz[at]catamaranmedia.com or you can comment on this story by
calling 624-8900, ext. 250.
Check out his Cape Cuisine food blog