It’s the first town in the first state
For hikers, bikers, history buffs, there’s a lot to love about Lewes
LEWES, Del. — According to guides at Cape Henlopen State Park, each day at about 3 p.m. a white deer steps out of the woods, to the delight and astonishment of hikers.
Though no photographs are available of the albino deer (which may be as apocryphal as Sasquatch, or Nessie), the story just adds to the charm of a truly charming community. Lewes, Delaware—which recently hailed its 375th anniversary—is a historic seaport, a fisherman’s hub, and a sanctuary for scores of endangered fowl and sea creatures.
It’s a great place to walk and bike, shop and stroll, and for bargain hunters, it’s a short drive to the mega-outlets of Rehoboth Beach.
Though its centerpiece, the Zwaanandael Museum, is a majestic example of 17th century Dutch colonial architecture, at heart, Lewes is a quintessential American small town. And it’s an easy day trip from Cape May County.

Getting there
As one who has made the journey countless times with my daughter, and my nieces and nephews, I can attest that kids never tire of the ferry ride from Cape May to Lewes. It features views of some of the region’s historic lighthouses, as well as the occasional pod of leaping dolphins. Then there’s the simple thrill of being en route, hunkering down with a cup of hot chocolate and watching the gulls arc and dive above the boat. Parents, take a book or board game—the trip is just under two hours.
During the summer or on holidays, always make a reservation for the ferry; in the off-season, it’s usually not necessary. Though the trip is a bit pricey—$23 one-way for a car and single motorist November through March, and $29 in-season, with a discount on the return fare—consider it a necessary indulgence, at least once a year. Take the kids, load up the pets (leashed dogs are permitted on deck), and go. Foot travelers get the best deal—$7 to $9.50 one-way, less for kids 6-13, and free for children under six.
Anchors aweigh!

Down on Main Street
For the essence of downtown Lewes, go to Second Street first. On Second Street—which is Lewes’s main street—you’ll find great shopping, dining and sight-seeing in a quaint, almost Mayberry-esque setting.
My favorite shops are Wildflowers (for gifts and a great selection of bath and body items), Down by the Bay (all things nautical, including ship’s bells and clocks), Thistles (affordable jewelry and fine art, including lots of collector’s-quality animation cels), and two great antique markets: the Lewes Antique Mercantile Gallery, and the Saxon Swan.
For exceptional dining, you can’t beat The Buttery, inside the old Trader Mansion, which tops everyone’s list of great local restaurants. Get there for the prix fixe early dinner (three courses, $28), or prepare to splurge. Most folks think of The Buttery as a special occasion restaurant. My favorite is Books by the Bay, a beguiling little book store just off Second that also offers breakfast and lunch. The food is great, the coffee is hot, and the fireplace is usually lit on chilly days. You can even read (without buying) while you eat. Hurray for Books by the Bay!
Alas, some sad news: just last week the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory, also on Second Street, burned to the ground. We are happy to report the owners plan to rebuild.

What’s next?
A Lewes resident (whose husband is a restaurateur) also recommends the following eateries: the Blue Plate Diner, another great hash joint that serves a plentiful breakfast; Gilligan’s (only open in season, it serves the best crab cakes in town); the Lewes Bakery (it doubles as a sandwich shop); Striper Bites; and Irish Eyes.
Now you’re well fed. What else can you do in beautiful Lewes?
If you’re a fisherman, catch a charter boat for tautog, rockfish, mullet and mackerel.
Natural areas abound here, and are (thankfully) jealously protected. Beaches, nature trails, bird sanctuaries and the Seaside Nature Center can all be found at Cape Henlopen State Park just outside of Lewes.
The historic district in Lewes contains many of the older, preserved homes (some of which have been transformed into B&Bs or shops). Take a walking tour, or strike out on your own. Be sure to visit St. Peter’s Episcopal Church on Second Street. The surrounding churchyard has headstones from the 16th century.

This is just a taste of beautiful Lewes. For the complete report, including information about Rehoboth Beach (it’s right next-door) and blogs on business, sports and food, go to our online edition at www.shorenewstoday.com/columns .

Marjorie Preston can be reached at marjorie.preston [at] catamaranmedia.com , or you can comment on this story by calling 624-8900, ext. 246.