• Summer Magazines

     Steve Bradley shows off some of the fruit from his backyard shrub. He said it’s at least 50 years old, maybe close to 100, and seems to be going strong. Figs are said to be one of the first plants humans ever cultivated, apparently beating out staples like wheat and rye by a good measure. Ancient texts mention the fruit from thousands of years before…

  • Summer Magazines

    For strawberries, red means go One of the highlights of summer eating is now ready

    There’s no avoiding the conclusion that strawberries want to be eaten.

    Look at it this way; they don’t exactly hide, do they? At least when they are ready and ripe.

  • Summer Magazines

    The season starts now, but it doesn’t last

    A more mature writer, in a more serious publication, could probably resist a lead like “this is the dawning of the age of asparagus.” 

    Fat chance. 

    The flowers are blooming, the days are long, and those in shorts and flip-flops no longer seem pathological. 

  • Summer Magazines

     Rob, Catherine and Karl Giulian join their dad, Karl Giulian, to talk about backyard gardens. The youngest, David, is not pictured.  Karl Giulian can’t wait for his kids to get older.

    He’s looking forward to it for all the usual reasons of course, but there’s an ulterior motive as well. The swing set is in the way of his garden expansion.

    His 12-foot-by-12-foot garden has already slipped its borders, with potted colonies…

  • Summer Magazines

    tomatoesSometimes, it seems as though there should be sort of a reverse toll at all bridges leading over the Delaware into South Jersey, with a nice old man in work trousers stopping each car.

    “Welcome to New Jersey,” he’d say. “Here’s your tomato.”

  • Summer Magazines

    green beansWhen most folks think of organic farming, they tend to focus on the stuff added to a field that kills things, not what’s added to make things grow.

    The connection is clear and – for some – fairly visceral. Pesticides kill bugs, herbicides kill weeds and fungicides kill fungus, allowing the plants we like to eat to thrive. But many people question what happens when we eat the crops that have been treated with chemicals designed to kill, even if they are said to be harmless if used as directed.

    Others wonder what happens to the…

  • Summer Magazines

     Farm markets offer a direct connectionEverything you eat grew somewhere.

    In the meantime, it may have been canned, frozen, broiled, fried or processed beyond recognition, but somewhere, at some time, the last bite you’ve taken was alive, growing, in a field or a hothouse or a pen or a bay.

    It’s funny how easy that can be to forget.

  • Summer Magazines

    Willis Allen (he says he just goes by Junior) and his brother Tony search for some early fruit at the Allen Family Farm this week. The blueberries should be going strong soon A visit to Carol Ann Allen’s farm this time of year is a lesson in potential.

    Fields surround her big white farmhouse on a dirt road in Belleplain. Some tomatoes and pumpkins…

  • Summer Magazines

     Doc Adams Through this season, in this space, readers have been enticed, cajoled and nagged to eat local food, and lots of it.

    Not this week.

    Instead, we’ll talk about what once was, and why it’s changed. And why one of the favorite fish for many anglers is now more or less off the menu.

  • Summer Magazines

    Here’s one for Joe and Joanne Sixpack. 

    You know, regular folks. The common people. Those with taste.

    Let’s face it, beer gets a bad rap. Its reputation has improved in recent years, but for many, the world’s first alcoholic brew, and the most popular, is shorthand for plebian tastes. Think of Homer (Simpson, not the Illiad author) downing Duff Beer while sitting in the kitchen in his underwear.




One Fish, Two Fish brings new flavors to ‘restaurant row’

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The heirloom tomato stack appetizer at One Fish Two Fish is an example of the chef’s focus on local seasonal produce. The heirloom tomato stack appetizer at One Fish Two Fish is an example of the chef’s focus on local seasonal produce.  A new Wildwood Crest restaurant is putting a trendy spin on some dining classics.

One Fish, Two Fish Restaurant at 5290 Pacific Ave. had its “soft opening” a few weeks ago.

“We’re creating dishes people are familiar with, but with a little twist,” said chef and co-owner Ryan Allenbach.

For example, the surf and turf is what Allenbach called semitraditional – it’s a play on scallops wrapped in bacon, but instead of bacon the seared scallops are served with pork belly, which is taken from the same cut of meat, he said. But what sets it apart is the sauce, which is aerated to produce a light, foamy sauce.

The smoked tomato marinara served with the crispy calamari appetizer and the gulf shrimp cioppino entrée, is made with tomatoes that have been smoked on the stove top, Allenbach said.

“No one is making their marina sauce like that,” he said.

The restaurant, which is named after the children’s book “One Fish Two Fish Red Fish Blue Fish” by Dr. Seuss, reflects the restaurant’s imaginative dishes, Allenbach said.

“It’s playful, and I think a lot of our food is playful,” he said.

In the restaurant’s “deconstructed cocktail sauce,” for example, the tomato and horseradish are separated on the plate, and patrons can mix the two together to their desired taste.

“I have no problem with playing with your food,” the chef said.

Allenbach said that while many of his dishes play with different textures or unexpected flavors, his touch is more delicate than techniques involved in molecular gastronomy, a modern style of cooking that uses technical innovations to create transformed dishes.

“We’re subtle,” Allenbach said. “There’s no tank of liquid nitrogen in the back.”

Allenbach said he is also taking advantage of the fresh produce and seafood common to South Jersey.

“We have great produce and great seafood in this area,” he said, “and that is what will make a dish great.”

Everything on the menu, including the desserts, vinaigrettes and sauces, is homemade, he said.

“Nothing comes through the kitchen door that isn’t made from scratch.”

Allenbach met his partner, Brian Schroeder, when they were pumping gas together in high school.

Both are from Medford and went on to become chefs, but this is their first cooking venture together.

Allenbach said fine dining is uncommon in Wildwood, where many restaurants are focused on family dining. But despite some of his concerns that the food would be “too out there” for Wildwood, he said the response has been “positive so far.”

The good reception could be in part due to the efforts to revitalize Pacific Avenue, particularly with regard to dining. Restaurants such as Juan Pablo’s Margarita Bar and Gia Ristorante have become staples on Pacific Avenue, while new restaurants like Goodfish Grille and Cattle ’n Clover have helped the strip live up to its nickname, restaurant row.

“Wildwood is no joke in the food scene,” Allenbach said. “We’re right there with Cape May.”

One Fish, Two Fish is open 4-10 p.m. daily. For information or to make a reservation call 609-522-5223.

Surf and turf at One Fish Two Fish features an air-emulsified foam sauce, which the chefs say is a personal twist on a classic. Surf and turf at One Fish Two Fish features an air-emulsified foam sauce, which the chefs say is a personal twist on a classic.

Chefs Ryan Allenbach and Brian Schroeder are the operators of Fish Two Fish in Wildwood Crest. Chefs Ryan Allenbach and Brian Schroeder are the operators of Fish Two Fish in Wildwood Crest.


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