Leave the world behind and go surfing

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A surfer cruises past some swimmers on a recent ride. A surfer cruises past some swimmers on a recent ride. Somebody’s phone is ringing.

Somebody’s phone is always ringing.

There’s one on the wall, another in your pocket that also dings when you get a text or email or Facebook notification. For some reason, you also downloaded Facetime and HeyTell and told Angry Birds it was OK to remind you to play it every day. You even paid extra for an app to accept faxes (in case anyone still sends faxes) and a special telegraph adaptor to receive messages from the Old West.

The old phone on the wall just stays on the wall. It would take a message if anybody but telemarketers called it, but that other little phone travels with you, keeping you in reach of your boss, your family and everybody you know more or less wherever you go. It’s at the ready in the supermarket and while you’re on vacation, it waits in silent mode while you’re at the movies or at a meeting, but still lets gives a little twitch to let you know when something, anything, requires your attention.

Be deeply thankful it’s not waterproof.

That means you have every reason to leave the rest of the world waiting on the beach when you paddle out for some surfing time.

It’s not that you forget about the ominous business meeting waiting for you as soon as you get in to work, or the snarky email from your sister that needs answering; it’s just that when you’re on the board, there isn’t room for anything else.

A longboarder cruises on a wave. With water temperatures climbing back up, more surfers are dropping the wetsuits. A longboarder cruises on a wave. With water temperatures climbing back up, more surfers are dropping the wetsuits. This morning, Thursday, July 24, there were a few nice sets of knee- to waist-high waves, clean and with a good shape. But there were long pauses between those sets, when there was nothing to do but bob around keeping an eye out. The tally was several dolphins, one skimmer heading home, two people on standup paddleboards heading east, apparently planning on a trip to France, and somebody sitting on the lifeguard stand sipping coffee.

Then, every once in a while, some waves would come along and offer a nice zippy ride to the beach.

The rides were a blast, by the way. Like I said, they were clean, and breaking with a nice point even at high tide. They weren’t all that powerful, not epic rides racing to get out of the barrel before it closed, just fun cruises that carried all the way into the shallows.

But sitting on the board, feet in the cool water – well, I can’t say it was as nice as the rides, but it was awfully nice.

I wasn’t completely disconnected. I kept a watch on, set a deadline and more or less kept to it, but within that hour-or-so morning session, if anybody wanted me for anything, they’d better be ready to swim out to me.

By the way, there’s a waterproof case for an iPhone on Amazon for $10 that has pretty good reviews, with one-day shipping available.
But I won’t tell if you don’t.

A couple of groms battle for a ride. A couple of groms battle for a ride.


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